Update ETACs on Mitsubishi ASX

Steps to get into ETACS customization:

Start Lexia Office, than select C-crosserLexiaDiagnosisTest by function.

Next, choose category. Depending of your selection, you will get ECUs list. You’re mostly interested in ETACS, for unknown reason called there “BSI”.

So, select BSIConfigurationManual configuration

Next, there will be two options – Vehicle configuration and Customer options.

The latter is unwritable in Lexia, it can be modified by PP2000 software or using MMCS.

The first one contains Vehicle options and Default Parameters. Here’s you buffet, but be careful, do not change options with unknown as a value – there is no easy way to change them back!

After having option changed press F5 to save, you’ll be asked for a code – enter 03114.

Do not switch ignition off until told to do so by instructions on the screen – you can have a ECUs inconsistency problems!

Likes & Dislikes about the ASX

After enjoying the ASX for a while a few of my likes and dislikes are…

ASX 4 Model Head unit very good
Deceptive amount of luggage-space
Good Driving Position
Exterior styling
Engine has good power (1.8D)
Keyless entry & start

No Clock on the dash
Trip Computer is very poor in relation to MPG
Quite a bit of road noise
Rear Wiper washer is poor (just a dribble)
No Indicators in mirrors (like the EU model)
No Roof Rails (like the EU model)
Side Indicators cannot be replaced with Silver items

Audio Upgrades in the Mitsubishi ASX

Below is a guide to improving the audio in your ASX. The majority of it is based on the UK market in which there are two models available:

ASX 2 – This comes with a built-in Radio/CD/MP3 player with 4 speakers

ASX 3 – This comes with a built-in Radio/CD/MP3 player with 6 speakers

ASX 4 – This comes with a Kenwood DNX-7240BT Sat/Nav Double-Din unit with 6 speakers.

So there to start….

Head Unit

If you have a the ASX4 – You’re off to a good start. While the DNX-7240BT is 2 generations old its still a very good unit which originally retailed for around £1500. Move to the next section

Generally the first place to look is the source. It doesn’t matter how good your speakers are, if the source is not very good, your sound will not be very good. Both the ASX 2 & ASX3 can be upgraded to take any double (or single) DIN unit.

Connect2 have a kit for upgrading the head unit which includes the facia & loom to connect up the new head unit. This facia costs approx £160-£180. You can also get a steering wheel remote cable which retains the steering wheel stereo functions. Which lead you need will depend on the make of head unit you opt for.

Facia Kit – CTKMT02 Mitsubishi ASX Non Amplified Radio

In terms of which head units there is a large range out there and its always changing. Personally i am impressed with the DNX-7240. A few options would be

  • Kenwood DNX-7280BT – Multimedia Receiver with Navigation & Bluetooth
  • Alpine iXA-W407BT – Digital Media Station
  • Alpine INE-S900R – Advanced InCar Navigation Station with Bluetooth DVD iPod/iPhone
  • JVC KW-NT3 – Sat Nav With European Mapping Built in Bluetooth DVD / MP3 / CD


I like to break the speakers down into 3 areas:

  • Front Speakers
  • Other Speakers
  • Subs

The first speakers to replace are the front speakers. Personally I never bother replacing the rear speakers, I always prefer to invest the money into higher quality front speakers. If you get a really good set of front speakers you will not even notice your rear speakers.

If you want a full range sound then the sub is the next step. This does not need to be a huge sub, a smaller one can be really nice, clean and produce a balance sound when combined with some good front speakers.

Two common questions/statements are..

But I like sound from the back – If this is the case and you really want to replace the rear speakers then feel free. Music is normally designed to be played in-front of your. When you go and watch a concert you don’t have speakers at the back pointing forward, all the speakers are at the front (bar a few often half way back, but these point back to help carry the sound to the cheap seats)

I don’t want a really bassy sound – A properly setup sub does not need to make your car shake, it can help seamlessly blend the low frequency with the higher frequency sounds into a high quality sound. Most songs are designed to take advantage of sub level frequencies and improve the overall experience.

(The one time it is worth upgrading all speakers is if your going for a full 5.1 audio system but if you are doing this please visit a local audio installer to make sure you do it right and don’t waste money)

Front Speakers

The two common setups are the “4 speaker” and “6 speaker” system. The main difference between these is that the 6 speaker system has separate tweeters and woofers. The tweeters are on the inside door mirror cover and the woofers are in the main door panel. If you want to know why you should change the front speakers the picture below says it all. The factor speakers are very budget units.

The front door factor bottom/woofer speakers are:

Speaker Size: 6.5 “(16.5 cm)

Mounting Diameter: 126mm

Mounting depth: 63mm

The front door factor top/tweeter speakers are:

Speaker Size: 1 “(25mm)

Mounting diameter: 44,5 mm

Mounting depth: 22,2 mm

Unfortunately its not a straight forward case of bolting in replacement speakers due to the housing the original ones are in. To put a similar replacement 6.5″ speakers in you will need to build your own speaker for them out of MDF or similar. Some picture below show the sort of thing I am talking about.

Good example of a replacement speaker with the door fully sound deadened

As well as replacing the door speaker something that is well worth doing is putting in some sound deadening material like Dynamat. You only need to look at the size of the door panel to know that its going to flex a lot. Even just a small amount opposite where the speaker goes will make a difference. ideally putting some over most large sections of the outer skin. To see the effectively just tap the outside of the door before and after and you will see that with Dynamat it does not resinate like it does from the factory.

Rear Speakers

As said before – save your money and invest them in some nice components for the front


There are a few simple options if you want to add a subwoofer. These are subwoofers that include an amp built into the casing – Active-Subwoofers. There are a couple which may* (TBC) be suitable such as

Focal Bus 25 – Under seat Active Subwoofer. This could be installed under either the drivers or passenger driver seat. Luckily there is lots of room under there on the ASX.

Focal Solution 25 A1 – This subwoofer would sit nicely in the boot.

An alternative solution would be to get a custom sub box made up for a subwoofer. This could be made in the same style as the Rockford enclosure that is available in some markets. If you followed this route you would also need to look at installing a separate amplifier.


If your looking to put in a subwoofer you will need a mono-block (single channel) amplifier or if your looking to improve the overall sound of your system you will need a 2/3/4/5 way amplifier. There is a full range available to suit all budgets. Personally I can recommend Audison and Focal.

NOTE: To install an amp you will need either the ASX4 or a aftermarket head unit with pre-outs

Watch out for amps which are very cheap because they will probably not be much better than the amp built into the head unit, and also amps which over estimate the power outage. When looking at power ratings look for the RMS value – this is the true output you will get. You always want to get speakers which can handle more power than the amp can output.

One of the main challenges with installing an amp is providing power to the amp. To do this you will need to get a Amplifier Wiring Pack which should include everything you need as follows

  • Power Cable – This will need to be run from the battery
  • Fuse – This will be used inline with the power cable, as close to the battery as possible
  • Ground Cable – This will need to be connected to a nice clean bolt connected to the chassis
  • Remote Cable – This needs to be run from the head unit. It turns the amp on
  • RCA Cables – This is the cable which carries the audio signal

A good example of wiring kits can be found at CarAudioDirect – www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/autoleads-4awg.html

DISCLAMER: I have not got round to upgrading the audio in mine so this is all provided as to the best of my knowledge

Thanks to Mistubishi-ASX.net for some of the pics – Great Russian Site for ASXs

Installing MQ / libstdc++.so.5 pre-req on RHEL6

One of the pre-reqs that if needed by MQ7 (or more specifically gsk7bas) is that it needs – libstdc++.so.5.

If you try and find this package its often not available. To install it run the following commands

yum groupinstall “Compatibility libraries”
yum install libstdc++.so.5

If you want to install MQ you will also need

yum install libstdc++.so.6

Fitting LED DRLs – Guide

The Kit

Below are a couple pictures of the kit. It was imported from a German Mitsubishi dealer. This is an official Mitsubishi product which comes with Mitsubishi branded instructions but I think it was commissioned by them. The lights are made by a company called NSV Automotive who produce a number of kits for various manufacturers such as Mercedes Benz, Porsche, Range Roger, Rolls Royce etc.

The kit is not cheap but appropriately the product is VERY high quality. This product cannot be compared to your £25 ebay LED DRL kit. This kit comes complete with a control module alone, 2 DRL units complete with lenses (not just simple SMD LEDs) and two moulded trims which have been designed to fit perfectly onto the ASX. Once fitted they look like they look factory fit.

Complete Package

DRL Closeup

Stage 1

Depending on the age of the car you may/may not have the required relays/fuses. Open up your fuse box and take a look. If it matches that below then you need the relay and fuse

1) Relay – Mitsubishi Part Number 8627A011.

This relay needs to be put into the relay slot A-27 in the fuse/relay box in the engine bay as shown below. Its marked as the DRL relay on the fusebox layout on the underside of the fuse box cover

2) Fuse – A 10A fuse is required to feed the DRL lights. This needs to be placed into slot 13, i.e. the front right and side looking from the front of the car.

Once sorted the fuse box should look like this

Stage 2a

By default the DRLs are disabled in the cars ECU although some of the earlier cars did have them enabled. To check if they work you will need to use a voltmeter on one of the plugs. To access the plug (A52) you need to remove the radiator cover as shown below. There are 6 poppers that need to removed.

Once you have removed the trim panel you will be able to see the grey plug you need to get to. Remove the connector plug to the left and then move the socket to the left to remove it from the bracket.

Once you have removed the plug you need to probe the pin 3 (violet cable). Turn your engine on and make sure your lights are off. If you see 14v then your ready for the next step. If you don’t you need to activate them in the ECU as per stage 2b. TO make sure you are probing the correct connector, turn on your fog lights. This should not affect the voltage. If it does you have probed the fog cable not the DRL cable.

Stage 2b

The DRLs are controlled by a part call ETACS, which is responsible for all the electronic settings in your cars like auto-closing your mirrors, what lights you have etc.

To get the DRLs enabled there are two ways

1) Ask your friendly Mitsubishi Dealer – Note Mitsubishi do not support this action and thus you might find it hard to get your dealer to do this for you unless you are really good friends

2) Use Lexia software with a OBD Reader. This software can be used to

a) Enable the DRLs

b) Set the DRLs to be independent from the main lights

Once this has been completed the brains of the car will turn on the DRLs when ever you are driving without the lights on. As per stage 2a, please check you are now getting 14v on Pin3 of the grey connector when you have the engine running with no lights on.

Stage 3

Next step is to wire up the DRLs. As part of the kit is the main controller which is very simple to connect up. It takes 3 feeds. Two of these are from the DRL lights. The final from the side lights. To make like easier remove the fog surrounds and fog lights.

First work out where to position the DRL controller. I put it on the inside of the bumper on the passenger side as recommended by the instructions. I used the provided 3m pads to attach it. Make sure the plastic is nice and warm as this helps the adhesive on the pads. If its cool/cold use a small hair-dryer to warm it up.

Next do a dry run of where the cables are going to run. Feed the main power connector down behind the passenger headlight and locate it as if it was connected to the main module.

Feed the cable to the plug near the bonnet catch. Once there remove the plastic trim from the cables. This will leave a lot of spare black & red cable. Trim these off leaving enough cable to connect up to the plug.

The blue cable needs to connect to the sidelight feed. The cable provided in the kit is not long enough so it needs to be extended. I used the spare red cable to do this.

Blue cable all layer out ready to be extended

Nicely twisted ready for the solder

Soldered and then heat-shink covered to make nice and tidy

To make the install look good and nice and tidy I have used some spare sheathing and heat-shrunk the joins

End of the sidelight pickup

As the bumper wiring loom on the UK car (later models) does not have any connectors for the DRLs I have cut the cable before the connector. This makes it much easier to connect up to.

For safety seal off the ends of the cable from the plug

Now its time to solder the DRL cables up to the car loom.

DRL Red Cable -> A-52 – Pin 3 – Light Grey Cable

DRL Black Cable -> A-52 – Pin 4 – Black Cable

Once soldered make sure you use heat-shink to seal them up

You can now plug the bumper loom back in and use zip ties to keep the DRL cables nice and secure

To pick up the side light feed you need to join the DRL Blue cable in-line (i.e. don’t cut it) with Pin3 (Grey) on Plug A43 on the drivers side light. Its very fiddley to get to this plug but once removed and the bit of black tape has been removed its not too bad.

Strip back the wire coating but do NOT cut it.

Solder the blue (extended red in my case) cable to the grey cable and insulate with tape.

Plug the cable back in and zip tie the cable to secure it.

The final step of the wiring is to feed the DRL cable to the passenger side. I joined the two cables that came in the kit together and feed it from the below the fog, up behind the drivers head light. Across under the trim panel and then down behind the passenger head light. I looped up spare cable and tip tired id.


Now is a good time to check all the wiring is working. Connect up the DRLs by feeding the cable through the fog lights. When you start the engine (with the lights off) the DRL should turn on with high intensity. Turn your headlights on and the DRLs should dim.

If this does not happen recheck all your connections.

Stage 4

This is the tricky stage. Due to the size of the LEDs (there are not your cheap $5 ebay efforts, they are very well made, high quality units) they do not fit without cutting into the standard bumper. The process is very well documented in the supplied instruction on how to fit it.

With the kit is some transfers which need so the cut out and stuck to the bumper. These mark out the area that needs to be cut.

The point of no return. Now cut out the area marked by the hatched area on the transfer. To cut the bumper I used my gas soldering iron with a knife attachment. This cut through the plastic very well, although melted plastic pushed out a bit this was cleaned up with a stanley knife.

Next put the DRL onto the bumper and use a pencil to mark round the edge of it. Remove the DRL so you can see the outside marking of the trim. Using the sand-paper provided in the kit rough up the bumper inside of the pencil line. This allows the adhesive to make a good strong bond. Use the beta clean solution to remove any contaminants from the plastic

Prepare the DRL plastic trim by sanding the inside lip and gain use the beta clean solution to remove any contaminants from the plastic.

To attach the trim panels, a trim adhesive – Betalink K1 adhesive is provided with the kit. This is a bit of a black gooey mess so be careful when using it. Use the supplied nozzle to spread the adhesive all around the edge of the plastic trim. Present the trim up to the bumper and push it on. The trim needs to be held in position for a many hours (5-6 before being driven minimum) so I have used the trusty old Gaffa Tape to secure the trims. If any of the K1 squeezes out of the trim then use the Betaclean solution straight away to remove it.

I left mine over night to let the bonding 100% cure.

Next remove the gaffa tape (or appropriate fixing). Test the new lights and make sure they operate correctly. Once you know its all working correctly reconnect the fog lights and replace the fog light trim.

Job Done

Some photos of the DRLs in the dark. (and wet..)

Lights Off

Sidelights & DRLs on

Indicators Flashing

HeadLights On

Dark 25s exposure for fun

Another ASX Annoyance….No Decent Average MPG Meter

And the next annoying feature of the ASX has been found.

On the trip computer there is no way to get the average MPG value of a journey that spans more than 1 day.

By default the car gives a rolling average over the last 50km. Even if you set it to manual reset, it only lasts till you next start the car i.e. by the next day you have lost the value.

Very poor feature

Reversing Camera Falling Out

This morning after getting into the car I noticed that the reversing camera in the ASX was falling out the tailgate. A quick push in and it appeared to sort it but then as soon as the tailgate was closed it dropped down again.

I took a quick look but there does not appear to be any defect fixing mechanism. It just relised on a couple of bits of plastic to push out although they don’t look like they have any locking tabs on them (unless mine have snapped off)

Will have to investigate in daylight.

Another ASX Annoyance….No Clock on the Dash

And the next annoying feature of the ASX has been found.

The ASX comes with a full colour LCD trip computer in the center of the dash. Its used for many colourful graphics but its missing such a basic feature…A CLOCK

On our Model – the ASX4 there is a clock on the Audio head unit but its not a very clear one and it also not available when its being used as a SatNav (well it is possible to show a clock but then you loose the ETA) Such a simple feature and there is plenty of space during normal operations to fit it on the LCD.

Poor effort Mitsubishi.

New Mitsubishi ASX-4

Today we picked up our New Mitsubishi ASX.

Started with a trip to the Reading dealer (as Mitsubishi Southgate of Romsey who we initially ordered it from had gone bust). Thankfully got a lift from a friend at work to Southampton Airport Parkway. £36 later we had two tickets to Winnersh. Train journey there was actually OK although were very frsutrated to miss the connection from Reading -> Winnersh literly by seconds. It left just as we got to the start of the platform.

Once in Winnersh a 15 minute walk as it was nice and Sunny and we were at the dealer.

After a bit of waiting (as Anythony our sales man was out on a test drive) we started the paper work.

Had a quick look over the car and it was all good except the Interior Matts were missing. A small oversight but it was sorted straight away and they were there before we had finished all the paperwork.

A couple hours later and we were all done and ready to drive home. About a 50 minutes drive of some nice A roads then the motorway.

Really happy with the car – So glad we went for the black wheels as they really compliment the black bumper trim

Pics to follow